I'm not so great at wifi stuff so I thought I'd ask some better brains here :-)My Fritz box just got updated to a new version of OS and it says that wifi bandwidth is expanded from 80 to 160Mhz (it's a Fritzbox 7590) .. to use this expanded bandwidth does a client device have to be configured to do it ? Have a certain amount of antennas ?And how much real world impact does it have ? (I'm lucky and have no otherwifi sources near me so interference should be low)Thanks!
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WiFi 160Mhz ... what can use it ?
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multiple wifi access point options
Hi. For a house that fully network cabled in each room, with poor wifi coverage....I'm looking at wifi optionsI was thinking simple wifi access points in the 4 rooms with really bad wifi signal.Just cheapish access points that plug directly into the power socket & connect that to ethernet . Having the AP plugged into the wallis just tidier than the usual AP that have separate power packs .Then a different SSID on each access point . go to another room, then manually connect to that APThe other option is a integrated, managed system , single SSID the supports 'roaming' between rooms & drops the signal & forces a reconnect tothe closest AP as the user goes from lounge to bedroom etcWhat systems do that properly , ie drop & force a reconnect to the closer AP ?What Im trying to avoid is the 'it doesnt work' caused by devices that wont auto reconnect to closer AP's as the user roams around the house
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Small BT receiver
Hi allI'm looking for recommendations on a small BT receiver that has a 3.5mm stereo socket to allow connection to non BT capable equipment via a stereo cable. Anyone here use anything like this and have any comments around connection reliability etc.?
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Synology RT2600ac Wifi performance vs DSL-AC68u
So i decided seeing as the Asus DSL-AC68U was 2014 and while nothing technically wrong with it, and has served me well, i should get a full fledged router plus the extra port was needed, having a gig fibre connection.So after countless reviews, and reading up, i settled on the Synology RT2600AC as i know a few of you have also. I didn't want to spend heaps, like on the AC88u but close to 400 was enough for me, for it to last another good few years, plus i know their software is great.Wired connections, are great, no issues there, apart from ipv6 not really working, but no big deal. When it comes to the wifi, its not good at all its so inconsistent. I know all about interference and what not, and changing channels i have tried everything i can think of.With the exact same location of the router, and the exact same channels for the 5ghz and the 2.4 ghz manually set on both devices, testing using the same device ( iphone 7 until i get my laptop back) and standing in the same locations throughout the house, with no packages installed in the synology router, the asus will consistently deliver between 180 to 260 down, and similar equal upload, the synology varies from 70's, and 80's down,mids 100's, a sporadic 344 once, but the uploads, are as low as in there 30's to a peak of 108 at its highest upload rate, and when i say throughout the house, i do one test on the couch about 5 meters away, and then a couple more at the either ends of the house, with some walls and floors in the way.So im really thinking the asus is still quite solid, and is the synology i have faulty, or its firmware, or after hours of trying different settings im being thick about something. I know the speeds are still good, but not as excellent as i was hoping for.
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The router guide - what is best.
I keep seeing these threads on Geekzone and since I am a bit of a router horde (the Edgerouter for me is by-far the best) I thought I'd better make a thread with mine and others experiences, and what works best for the average home dependant on some situations, budget, features and ease of use and include other experiences in an easy to find and Google place.First Category - all in one routers:These routers are best if you're wanting something with everything built into one unit that offer decent WiFi.1) Huawei HG659 - Supports all connection types, suitable for Gigabit connections, decent WiFi and available cheaply. This router is currently provided by Spark, BigPipe and Vodafone however is designed as a home CPE device so doesn't have too many configurable features. Also, not suitable if you're one to use Netflix unblockers but for your general purpose all in one router this is a hard one to beat. Also, has VoIP. For those tinkernuts @solutionz has posted an excellent guide on how to get superadmin access and even root access on this router with the default, unrestricted BigPipe firmware (firmware image available here under advanced settings - is able to be flashed on any providers HG659 baring in mind the normal "disclaimers" apply).2) Netcomm NF8AC - Pricing - This router supports all connection types, a decent array of features. As far as all in one devices go if you have to buy one then let it be this one. Supports Gigabit connections and has pretty good WiFi too (suitable for a small home).3) ASUS DSL-AC68U - Pricing - Excellent WiFi, features and performance. A bit more pricey than the above options however if you're wanting something a little more advanced it is one to consider.4) Fritz!Box 7490 - Provided by many ISP's, can route Gigabit and has a bunch of features including SIP however doesn't have the best WiFi. You can often pick them up for cheap and therefore have now been included on the list.Second Category - routers only (advanced users):If you're wanting something a little more advanced going for one of these is a surefire bet. Just don't expect the most simple to use interfaces or a 5min setup if you're not experienced.1) Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite - Pricing - Has support for almost everything including insane packet switching speeds for the price. I've got a guide Here on the general configuration. The Edgerouter-X is also a great router (at a little over $100 - Price Link) for people who'd like the EdgeOS interface however are on a bit more of a budget. The Edgerouter 4 (Link) is one of Ubiquiti's newest routers and quite frankly it is nuts - if you've got a Gigabit connection it is well worth considering over the Edgerouter Lite.2) MikroTik RouterBOARD RB750Gr3 - Buy - This is an advanced and cheap router in the Mikrotik range. Doesn't have WiFi, is able to route Gigabit connections - an excellent start for somebody wanting a cheap Gigabit capable router and wants more advanced functionality.3) Mikrotik RouterBOARD RB3011UIAS-RM - Buy - A more advanced router for those wanting Gigabit routing with Mikrotik RouterOS.4) Ubiquiti UniFi Security Gateway - Buy - The exact same hardware as the Edgerouter Lite however links up to a UniFi Controller. Great for people who just want a basic router with advanced features. Very easy to set up and configure straight from the UniFi controller and ties in well if you've got other Ubiquiti gear. Runs well on Gigabit connections.5) Grandstream GWN7000 - Buy - Incredibly good router for the price, supports Gigabit and has a huge list of features. Pair with one of the Grandstream ceiling mounted access points (like the GWN7610) and you've got a killer setup. The GWN7000 also has a built in wireless controller.Third Category - routers w/ access points for UFB:These routers are for your more advanced users that want the flexibility of doing what they want - and have alternative OS support (such as Tomato and DD-WRT). Currently, there are no all in one units that support alternative operating systems and there likely never will.1) Netgear R7000 - Pricing, however places like Noel Leemings often have sales. - Can support a full Gigabit connection on Advanced Tomato (Tutorial Here), also was my router before I had the Edgerouter. Rock solid, runs cool and has great WiFi (better than the all in one router's above in my personal experience). This is now an older router but remains on the list due to its excellent support of third party firmware.2) ASUS RT-AC68U - Pricing - Stock firmware on the ASUS units is incredibly good however if you get bored this unit has the capability to load custom firmware too (like Advanced Tomato). Good for Gigabit connections, and has good WiFi.3) TP-Link Archer C7 - Can run OpenWRT however some users have reported WiFi instability with other OS builds, otherwise an excellent router.4) Ubiquiti Amplifi - Pricing - if you want strong WiFi everywhere in the house this is one to consider. Very simple to setup, supports Gigabit and VLAN tagging and rather cheap for what it provides.5) Synology RT2600ac - Pricing - I've never personally tried this however the UI is really nice (based on the Synology NAS experience), not as many apps as the Synology NAS (but not as powerful) but it includes a torrent client, RADIUS server, VPN (SSL, IPSEC, OpenVPN) as well as UPNP/DLNA media server. USB 3.0 for storage, SD card reader, USB 2.0 for networked printer. Easy to install certificates process, parental control (filtering, time management) and more. Also ssh access with root if needed. Dual WAN (primary and fallback, or load balancing). Hardware-based QOS and software-based IDS.For ADSL / VDSL using a router without a modem:1) Draytek DV130 - Pricing - Supports bridging meaning you can fully utilise your router, also ADSL + VDSL.2) Draytek DV120 is also a cheaper option for ADSL only connections if you can find one.Gigabit Connections:Most of the above options will be fine for Gigabit connections. The cheapest router with support for a full Gigabit connection will be the Huawei HG659 which is a great buy given what it can handle. Just because a router has Gigabit WAN doesn't mean it can route Gigabit connections as this is a task normally reliant on the CPU or dedicated hardware. Some of the cheaper routers also will claim to have Gigabit on the WAN port but be switched internally by the CPU either via VLAN's (the likes of some Linksys routers), via a USB bus (also seen on some cheaper routers) or via VLAN + a 100Mbit internal connection to the switch. I will compile a full list once I and others have had experience with these routers.Also note NO router will do Gigabit over WiFi so at these speeds there is no guarantee of WiFi performance. It is a little easier to predict on a 200Mbit connection but Gigabit is another story again.Wireless Access Points:If you're needing excellent WiFi through your home / office there are a couple of solutions. I'd recommend ceiling mounting these in your home and disabling WiFi on your router.1) Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC PRO - Pricing - This is the ducks nuts if you're wanting good performance WiFi.2) Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC LR - Pricing - Good performance WiFi and very good wireless coverage at more of a budget.3) Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC Lite - Pricing - A managed wireless AC access point on more of a budget. Great for smaller houses or larger houses if you're using more than one.4) Grandstream GWN7610 - Link - An excellent access point for the price - simple to use, pairs well with the routers intergrated controller (Grandstream GWN7000).5) Cambium E600 - Link - This has recently come down in price from nearly $800 per access point and is the only access point I've successfully gotten a full Gigabit over WiFi on. It is what I am (currently) using at home and have been darn impressed with its performance.Ubiquiti Managed Gear:I've created an UniFi Controller Here any Geekzone member can sign up to (assuming they live in NZ). This gives you far more control over your UniFi powered network. There are ways to set up UniFi gear without a controller however if you've bought managed gear you may as well get the full experience with a controller.TR-069 Management:Due to the crap and misinformed news article here (thread also here for a laugh) there have been some queries regarding TR-069 management on ISP supplied routers (like the HG659 given out by many providers). This is more a "feature" as it allows your ISP to provision changes out to your router and is in use by essentially all ISP's in NZ. There is nothing to be worried about, it is safe and considered secure and you've got to remember that your provider have security teams looking out for you. Turning this off is not recommended as your ISP will have no way of updating your routers firmware or updating configuration as they update things themselves which may cause loss of services (Vodafone TV, VoIP or even Internet to name a few) or even may introduce security vulnerabilities to your network. The non ISP provided routers will not have this enabled so you're responsible for all configuration, firmware upgrades etc. It is important to keep an eye on your router manufactures website to keep your router up to date.A note on products marketed towards Gaming:Honestly don't get sucked into products that market themselves towards gaming - they don't work (from experience). Most of the time it is just a generic router the company sells with "Gaming" added and a black theme on the web interface - a pure marketing strategy. You're often spending way more money on these products where a cheaper product (like the Ubiquiti USG or the Grandstream GWN7000 combined with a dedicated access point) will actually do a better job. Sure, they look cool in most cases but they're a waste of money. This goes for all networking products. They may work with slower connections but if you're on Fibre then save your money.----If you've got any more suggestions then post them below. I'll keep this post updated as I honestly configure so many of these damn things so have experience in quite a wide variety. If you're just wanting better WiFi look at grabbing something like an Ubiquiti UniFi AP which are excellent access points offering solid performance, and is simple to set up for your standard home user. Also, look below at other suggestions. There isn't any need to start up (yet another) topic asking "what is best" anymore.Last updated: 03/04/2018
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Is it possible to configure Spark Huawei HG630B as a wireless router or bridge only?
Hi all. I have a Spark VDSL connection with a Huawei HG659 modem (originally a Vodafone modem, but I put Spark firmware on it). I also have a Spark Huawei HG630b modem which I would like to use to extend my wireless network (or simply create a second wifi network) down in my garage. I have the house wired with network cable, so can connect from my modem to the WAN Port on my HG630b in the garage). I have tried to find a way to configure the HG630b to do this, but cannot figure it out (if it is in fact possible). Anyone here know if this can be done, and how? Cheers.
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Desktop ethernet port not reaching the speed of gigabit UFB
I recently upgraded my Slingshot 100/20 UFB plan to the Gigantic plan. After the upgrade, I tested both my Late2013 MBP and the desktop PC by plugging to the same ethernet port hardwired to the wall. The speed test indicated that the MBP worked perfectly fine by reaching 950/550mbps, but the PC only reached 450/400mbps max. As long as I can see, both devices showed the connection speed of 1Gbps.I subsequently tested LAN speed by transferring large files from the PC to MBP over ethernet and the speed was constant 115MB/s, which was close to the theoretical maximum of gigabit ethernet.The problem here is that the ethernet port of my PC is capable of transferring at the gigabit speed, but can only reach half of that speed when running internet speed test while the MBP has no such issue. I have a Samsung 860 EVO SSD installed as the system disk so there is no way it bottlenecks the throughput.Does anyone have the same experience or any suggestions?CheersWelles
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Wireless usb transmitter for large touchscreen monitor
Hi everyone,Apologies if this is in the wrong forum.My boss has poor sight, and so he has purchased a 55inch touchscreen monitor which is connected to his Windows 10 laptop via usb and HDMI cables. He would like to be able to connect wirelessly to the touchscreen and use all its touchscreen goodness. He has a MS wireless display adapter which works fine for extending his desktop to the touchscreen, but seems he would need some sort of usb transmitter/receiver for the touchscreen features....?Has anyone come across this before and found a solution? I initially found this product, but not many places stock it and any reviews I've found are poor:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CS6MXV0jywAppreciate any help or thoughts.Cheers,Shane
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ATV 4K Randomly Dropping Internet
Hoping someone can help with this problem I'm having.Here's my home network to set the scene.Spark VDSL using the HG659B. I'm not using an VPN or Smart DNS services and all settings on the HG659B are as per Sparks settings. The only change from standard is that Wifi is disabled on the router and LAN 1 passes to a switch and onto a UAP AC Pro for all wireless duties. I've had no issues with this set-up for the year I've been in this house.Recently picked up an ATV 4K for the lounge room. This is connected directly to LAN 2 on the HG659B purely for convenience as they are right next to each other and away from the switch. This works fine for the most part but it randomly drops connection from the internet. When the ATV drops internet nothing else in the house is impacted. All other wired or wifi clients keep trucking along as if nothing has happened. Sometimes a simple reboot of the ATV will sort it and at other times I need to reboot the router then the ATV to get it working again.Any thoughts on what could be causing this?Cheers
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Edgerouter firewall question - change from Vodafone to Spark (IPoE/DHCP to PPPoE)
Hi all, quick question concerning an Edgerouter Lite.A current Vodafone Fibre customer will be changing to Spark, and I'll need to re-configure an ER-3 Lite to work with this - that should be no issue, remove the IPoE interface and add a PPPoE one I guess, I'm just wondering about the firewall.This router was setup using the standard built in wizard - does anyone know if I will need to do anything with the firewall config to get it working correctly with the new PPPoE connection? I'm OK on the basics with these routers, but not a lot more. Thank you!
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Trouble setting up Ethernet moving into a wired house
After moving into a new house with the ethernet internally wired I'm having trouble actually getting it to work. With the configuration pictured below the wifi works and plugging devices directly to the router works properly, So I guess ONT to Router everything is working fine. however when I attempt to connect any devices (or the router from the router to the room outlets i'm just getting nothing from any of them. I feel like i'm missing something glaringly obvious. In the picture below I get wifi and internet direct from the router but nothing through the room port 5 leads to.Any help is appreciated
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Free Community UniFi Cloud Controller
I understand that for some of you getting into UniFi gear is a bit tedious because of the controller... Not anymore.Thanks to the kind folks at NexLevel Business Solutions (and @chevrolux) for donating a virtual machine I've now fired up a free UniFi controller for the Geekzone community to use.The server itself is managed by yours truly, I do have a fulltime job so will manage it in my spare time. This is intended for home/small business use. It is running the latest version of the UniFi controller software behind a nginx proxy hosted in AWS. Pricing for UniFi products is available Here.Setup:You'll first need to register for the UniFi portal. Please send me a DM with the following details:Name: Your NameEmail Address: Your email address (I need to be able to send you a registration email)Once you're provisioned you'll be able to set-inform your devices, you'll be granted temporary rights with the ability to accept devices into your portal. If you have more to add at a later date just flick me a PM and I can grant access again. Remember to do a set-inform twice once more once you've hit adopt in the controller to confirm the add.UniFi Access Points:Make sure that the UniFi is not adopted to any other UniFi controller before proceeding - if it is then you'll need to factory reset it. Please also ensure you've sent me through the MAC addresses of the device(s) you're wanting to add. If you're running an Edgerouter you can almost skip all these steps and look at this post.Once you've opened up your shiny new UniFi access point and got an account on the UniFi portal you'll need to inform it. Plug it into your network first off and download / install the UniFi discovery tool (Chrome Extension) - there will be instructions here to inform it (but this is not working for me - typical...) however it essentially involves clicking "Manage" beside your access point and informing it to http://gzunifi.nlb.nz:8080/inform using the default user/pass of ubnt/ubnt. You need to run the inform twice - the first time to make it show up under devices in your portal and the 2nd time to accept the inform (when it is seen adopting under the portal).The manual way when the tool doesn't work is to grab the IP address of your UniFi and SSH into it. Using Putty (Windows) or the SSH command (OSX, Linux) SSH into your access point with the username "ubnt" and password "ubnt" and run the command "set-inform http://gzunifi.nlb.nz:8080/inform" and you should get a response back. Note step 2 of the instructions that you need to do this twice when you've clicked adopt in the portal.USG:This is just like the UniFi AP however you need to ensure you've got internet connectivity to the USG first (via WAN1) - navigate to https://192.168.1.1 first to connect it to the internet then run the set-inform on it. You'll need to run this twice (when it is in the adopting stage in the portal) for it to be accepted.Tuning:The settings I recommend for the UniFi AC access points are the following:2.4GHz - HT20 (20MHz) (unless if you live in the middle of nowhere with no other WiFi congestion)5GHz - VHT80 (80MHz) AC models only otherwise 40MHz.Channel / Transmit power on both set to Auto.Band Steering - Prefer 5G (AC / dual radio UniFi AP's only).Airtime Fairness: Turn this on.Disclaimer: this is a community project. Uptime is not at all guaranteed however in the event it does ever go down for a period of time your networks will still stay running as normal. Backups are made by the server on a daily basis off-site and community-based help is available in this thread. Approval to the UniFi controller is based on users having at-least 10 posts on Geekzone, introducing themselves in the Introductions thread, actually being a member for a period of time and on my general approval - do DM me anyway as there are some exceptions to this case.There is also a post on the general security of this here (or below).
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D'Link Taipan DSL-4320L Slow on UFB
Hi All,For the last few months I have been having a strange issue with my DSL4320L connected to fiber from MyRepublic. Nothing had changed between the time it was working correctly to when it started acting up. But I have been experiencing slow download speeds with the DSL4320L connected to the ONT.I just wonder if there has been a setting I may have overlooked.Ok, first up specs:Router:- D'Link DSL 4320L firmware AU_1.01.05Connection:- My Republic- Fiber 950/500 o WAN connection type - Automatic/Dynamic IP (DHCP) o On Automatic IP connection - Host Name and MAC Address fields blank o DNS Server Settings - Connect to DNS Server Automatically o VLAN - Untagged- Static IPCables:- All CAT6Now the issue. All tests done over Ethernet on CAT6.- I am getting approx. 200 down and 450 up when connected to the DSL 4320L- Connection seems to drop to 60/450 at night on DSL 4320L- 850/450 direct from ONT- 850/450 from provider supplied router- Only thing I haven't tested is speeds with using DSL 4320L as a bridge (ideally I don't want this to be the only way I can connect)Things I have done:- Turn off QoS on the DSL 4320L- Turn on IPv4 Multicast streams- Checked MTU (1500 while set to auto)- Disabled firewall on DSL 4320L- Rolled back firmware and re updated on DSL 4320L- Complete factory reset on DSL 4320L- Had D'Link support remote in and check settings- Completely replaced DSL 4320L!!!! (exchanged for a brand new one thinking it was a port issue)- Changed all cables- Restarted ONT- Cried in a corner- Yelled at DSL 4320LWhatever I do I can't seem to get above 200 down on the DSL 4320L. I have a technician calling tonight but this has been going on since June so I don't have much hope that this will get resolved tonight.If all else fails I will change provider but I am concerned that this might end up being an ongoing issue.Any help is appreciated.
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Strange 2.4Ghz wi-fi problem
We've got a couple of different networks set up in our house - downstairs we only really use the 2.4 band, as most of the time we're not that near the router and hence won't make the best of the AC wifi. Upstairs though, on the second network, for some strange reason we can only connect to the 5Ghz network - every time we try to connect to that 2.4 we get an incorrect password error/unable to connect (even though connecting to the 5Ghz band up there is never a problem, and they share the same password.Tried changing wifi channels, but to no avail.Both networks are using a HG659 from Vodafone Anyone have any ideas?
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Using a satellite dish to book a public wifi hotspot
I'm looking at buying a motorhome that already has a satellite dish on it. As I'm going to live in the motorhome I've also been thinking about how I'm going to have the best (and affordable) internet experience I can get. I have seen some videos on youtube of people converting satellite dishes so that they boost the signal from nearby wifi hotspots. Has anyone done this on here and would there be a place I could get this done (I live in Christchurch)? Thanks
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Asus Routers
Hi All,I've noticed Mightyape is running a special on some Asus routers, just wondering if anyone has had any good or bad experiences with them what if they have a preferred device?Also I'm currently using a Fritzbox 7490 using Spark Fibre (900/400 plan), would I see any gain upgrading away from this? I'm looking to see if I can get any better Wifi performance in terms of coverage.https://www.mightyape.co.nz/computers/networking/routers/all?q=brand~asusCheers.
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FRITZ!Box 7490 individual device bandwidth monitoring?
Does anyone know if it's possible to do more detailed tracking/analysis of bandwidth usage at a per device level with the FRITZ!Box 7490?Or maybe there is some other way I can do it? Ideally I'd like to keep my FRITZ!Box in the equation though...
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Sharing PC WiFi Internet connection using Internet Connection Sharing - query
My son's university hostel recently turned off inroom ethernet (no idea) and only now provide WiFi - probably WPA2 Enterprise. That's very annoying since it means all his smart devices like a Chromecast and Amazon Dot stop working since they cannot connect to WPA2 Enterprise.Is there a way he can share his desktop Internet (from his WiFi dongle ) to the PC's ethernet port and possibly connect a router to the ethernet and share the connection to his devices? I did look at ICS and it seemed doable but I think we might have missed some settings since we could not get it t work. Links to how to articles would be helpful. Thanks
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WiFi APs or mesh WiFi to use with Mikrotik RB750Gr3 (over FibreX)
Hello.It seems like it may be the time to replace my Apple Airport Extreme/Express that I have in the house. The third AP to this mix (Airport Extreme) has decided to die.So will be needing to replace the hotspots around the house.At the moment the 3 hotspots around the house have ethernet connecting to Mikrotik RB750Gr3. So questions are:would it make sense to have mesh WiFi units to cover the hotspots?if not, what WiFi APs should I get without costing too much?I would prefer to keep using Mikrotik RB750Gr3 as I have it set up sweet - and to use over FibreX, however, if there's any thought that any other WiFi APs (or mesh WiFi like Netgear Orbi that I know support VLAN) then I may give it a consideration.In the end, I would like to keep the cost low. I would like to have 2 SSIDs, one for 2.4GHz and one for 5GHz across all these hotspots, in another word, auto SSID/hotspot switching.
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Negative lease time on router for internal IP address
I've got the usual Vodafone router fibre and a single dumb switch. Yesterday the Netflix on A1 Sony fell over. Queue ridiculous amounts of wailing from small people. No wired LAN connection. Soft on/off not change anything. So connected to router and the TV on 192.168.1.5 has lease time of negative 1820 hrs plus some negative minutes and seconds. All the other devices have positive lease times. So I deleted the connection, removed and plugged Ethernet on TV and LAN reconnects and everything is good. In hindsight this is the second time this has happened. Any idea what's going on and how to stop it happening again? Once the TV is on the wall, unplugging Ethernet from back will be a little tricky!!
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