Hi, I'd be grateful for some advice regarding home broadband set up.Our current set up is VDSL, a standard Spark HG659b router sat next to the phone in the open plan kitchen and a plug in Netgear range extender to reach the bottom 2 bedrooms in an approx. 220m2 4 bed house. It works ok for our current needs but it's not great. We mostly use mobile devices and laptops for web browsing and streaming, one TV, there are 5 of us.I am planning to install fibre this year and had a quote from a local AV company with a view to integrating the network with future home theatre. Their recommendation was a Ubiquiti edge router 4 and Unifi 8 port switch in the garage (easiest pace to install the ONT relative to the position of the house to the road) running some cat 6 cables through the house to one Unifi AC pro upstairs and one lite downstairs, with ethernet ports wherever a television is or might be in the future.I can save $300+ buying the same components from online retailers and I have a mate who is a very good and experienced electrician. Is this a setup that an electrician and an average (no IT training or experience) home user could get up and running?Is the whole thing overkill for an average house anyway? Our need for speed and data will only increase over time and it would be good to take the opportunity to future proof the house to some extent, reading around the suggested components seem to be more small office level than average home but do appear to be well rated on these forums.Thank you for your time and thoughts
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Home broadband setup advice please
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Comments please on this extended WiFi setup
I am leeching off an obliging neighbour for the holiday period. The setup is as shown:The issue is that the connection to the internet is very flaky. After setting it up it as shown and connecting to the extender SSID it works OK but eventually seems to revert to "Connected -no internet". Signal strengths are fine.One issue is that the TP-WA901ND range extender can't be configured so that the SSID of the extended network is different from the network it is connected to. My ipad only shows one available network, but I'm not sure which one it is (the neighbour's "source" network or the extender one). It connects but with the IP address 169.254.25.251 and shows "no internet".I'd appreciate any comments or tips on how to set this up if I have it wrong somehow.
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Looking to upgrade to a Ubiquiti setup
I got a Ubiquiti Unifi AP on christmas sale and i've been impressed with the speed and range and now i'm looking to make the switch to a full Ubiquiti setup.Below is my current setup and i want to get another Unifi AP for the living room as well as upgrading the routers with switches. I want to use a wired connection for the PC upstairs and routing another cable from the living room to upstairs is not an option.Do i need to get 2 switches or should i get Pro AP where it has 2 Ethernet ports so i can piggyback the connection to my gaming PC.
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The router guide - what is best.
I keep seeing these threads on Geekzone and since I am a bit of a router horde (the Edgerouter for me is by-far the best) I thought I'd better make a thread with mine and others experiences, and what works best for the average home dependant on some situations, budget, features and ease of use and include other experiences in an easy to find and Google place.A note on consumer grade routers: Most are overpriced garbage. I'm yet to find a router in the consumer market (with the exception of the Ubiquiti AmpliFi) that can outperform a "enterprise grade" solution on both price and performance. Don't get sucked in. The word "Gaming" is a buzzword that is often thrown about and means nothing - there is nothing these routers can actually do to improve your gaming ability especially if you're playing over Wireless. This is also mentioned below again as I see too many people getting sucked in. Do your research, if the all in one router costs over $350 then take a step back and consider either the Grandstream or Ubiquiti solutions as these are not much more price wise and will outperform any router in this price. If you're needing basic WiFi along with a router that can do anything then the Huawei HG659 is honestly the best solution here.Also thought I'd add - @raytaylor has prepared a guide in the past on extending your wireless on the cheap Here.First Category - all in one routers:These routers are best if you're wanting something with everything built into one unit that offer decent WiFi.1) Huawei HG659 - Supports all connection types, suitable for Gigabit connections, decent WiFi and available cheaply. This router is currently provided by Spark, BigPipe and Vodafone however is designed as a home CPE device so doesn't have too many configurable features. Also, not suitable if you're one to use Netflix unblockers but for your general purpose all in one router this is a hard one to beat. Also, has VoIP. For those tinkernuts @solutionz has posted an excellent guide on how to get superadmin access and even root access on this router with the default, unrestricted BigPipe firmware (firmware image available here under advanced settings - is able to be flashed on any providers HG659 baring in mind the normal "disclaimers" apply).2) Netcomm NF8AC - Pricing - This router supports all connection types, a decent array of features. As far as all in one devices go if you have to buy one then let it be this one. Supports Gigabit connections and has pretty good WiFi too (suitable for a small home).3) Fritz!Box 7490 - Provided by many ISP's, can route Gigabit and has a bunch of features including SIP however doesn't have the best WiFi. You can often pick them up for cheap and therefore have now been included on the list.Second Category - routers only (advanced users):If you're wanting something a little more advanced going for one of these is a surefire bet. Just don't expect the most simple to use interfaces or a 5min setup if you're not experienced.1) Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite - Pricing - Has support for almost everything including insane packet switching speeds for the price. I've got a guide Here on the general configuration. The Edgerouter-X is also a great router (at a little over $100 - Price Link) for people who'd like the EdgeOS interface however are on a bit more of a budget. The Edgerouter 4 (Link) is one of Ubiquiti's newest routers and quite frankly it is nuts - if you've got a Gigabit connection it is well worth considering over the Edgerouter Lite.2) MikroTik RouterBOARD RB750Gr3 - Buy - This is an advanced and cheap router in the Mikrotik range. Doesn't have WiFi, is able to route Gigabit connections - an excellent start for somebody wanting a cheap Gigabit capable router and wants more advanced functionality.3) Mikrotik RouterBOARD RB3011UIAS-RM - Buy - A more advanced router for those wanting Gigabit routing with Mikrotik RouterOS.4) Ubiquiti UniFi Security Gateway - Buy - The exact same hardware as the Edgerouter Lite however links up to a UniFi Controller. Great for people who just want a basic router with advanced features. Very easy to set up and configure straight from the UniFi controller and ties in well if you've got other Ubiquiti gear. Runs well on Gigabit connections.5) Grandstream GWN7000 - Buy - Incredibly good router for the price, supports Gigabit and has a huge list of features. Pair with one of the Grandstream ceiling mounted access points (like the GWN7610) and you've got a killer setup. The GWN7000 also has a built in wireless controller.Third Category - routers w/ access points for UFB:These routers are for your more advanced users that want the flexibility of doing what they want - and have alternative OS support (such as Tomato and DD-WRT). Currently, there are no all in one units that support alternative operating systems and there likely never will.1) Netgear R7000 - Pricing, however places like Noel Leemings often have sales. - Can support a full Gigabit connection on Advanced Tomato (Tutorial Here), also was my router before I had the Edgerouter. Rock solid, runs cool and has great WiFi (better than the all in one router's above in my personal experience). This is now an older router but remains on the list due to its excellent support of third party firmware.2) ASUS RT-AC68U - Pricing - Stock firmware on the ASUS units is incredibly good however if you get bored this unit has the capability to load custom firmware too (like Advanced Tomato). Good for Gigabit connections, and has good WiFi.3) TP-Link Archer C7 - Can run OpenWRT however some users have reported WiFi instability with other OS builds, otherwise an excellent router.4) Ubiquiti AmpliFi - Pricing - if you want strong WiFi everywhere in the house this is one to consider. Very simple to setup, supports Gigabit and VLAN tagging and rather cheap for what it provides.5) Synology RT2600ac - Pricing - I've never personally tried this however the UI is really nice (based on the Synology NAS experience), not as many apps as the Synology NAS (but not as powerful) but it includes a torrent client, RADIUS server, VPN (SSL, IPSEC, OpenVPN) as well as UPNP/DLNA media server. USB 3.0 for storage, SD card reader, USB 2.0 for networked printer. Easy to install certificates process, parental control (filtering, time management) and more. Also ssh access with root if needed. Dual WAN (primary and fallback, or load balancing). Hardware-based QOS and software-based IDS.For ADSL / VDSL using a router without a modem:1) Draytek DV130 - Pricing - Supports bridging meaning you can fully utilise your router, also ADSL + VDSL.2) Draytek DV120 is also a cheaper option for ADSL only connections if you can find one.Gigabit Connections:Most of the above options will be fine for Gigabit connections. The cheapest router with support for a full Gigabit connection will be the Huawei HG659 which is a great buy given what it can handle. Just because a router has Gigabit WAN doesn't mean it can route Gigabit connections as this is a task normally reliant on the CPU or dedicated hardware. Some of the cheaper routers also will claim to have Gigabit on the WAN port but be switched internally by the CPU either via VLAN's (the likes of some Linksys routers), via a USB bus (also seen on some cheaper routers) or via VLAN + a 100Mbit internal connection to the switch. I will compile a full list once I and others have had experience with these routers.Also note NO router will do Gigabit over WiFi so at these speeds there is no guarantee of WiFi performance. It is a little easier to predict on a 200Mbit connection but Gigabit is another story again.Wireless Access Points:If you're needing excellent WiFi through your home / office there are a couple of solutions. I'd recommend ceiling mounting these in your home and disabling WiFi on your router.1) Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC PRO - Pricing - This is the ducks nuts if you're wanting good performance WiFi.2) Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC LR - Pricing - Good performance WiFi and very good wireless coverage at more of a budget.3) Ubiquiti UniFi AP AC Lite - Pricing - A managed wireless AC access point on more of a budget. Great for smaller houses or larger houses if you're using more than one.4) Grandstream GWN7610 - Link - An excellent access point for the price - simple to use, pairs well with the routers intergrated controller (Grandstream GWN7000).5) Cambium E600 - Link - This has recently come down in price from nearly $800 per access point and is the only access point I've successfully gotten a full Gigabit over WiFi on. It is what I am (currently) using at home and have been darn impressed with its performance.Ubiquiti Managed Gear:I've created an UniFi Controller Here any Geekzone member can sign up to (assuming they live in NZ). This gives you far more control over your UniFi powered network. There are ways to set up UniFi gear without a controller however if you've bought managed gear you may as well get the full experience with a controller.TR-069 Management:Due to the crap and misinformed news article here (thread also here for a laugh) there have been some queries regarding TR-069 management on ISP supplied routers (like the HG659 given out by many providers). This is more a "feature" as it allows your ISP to provision changes out to your router and is in use by essentially all ISP's in NZ. There is nothing to be worried about, it is safe and considered secure and you've got to remember that your provider have security teams looking out for you. Turning this off is not recommended as your ISP will have no way of updating your routers firmware or updating configuration as they update things themselves which may cause loss of services (Vodafone TV, VoIP or even Internet to name a few) or even may introduce security vulnerabilities to your network. The non ISP provided routers will not have this enabled so you're responsible for all configuration, firmware upgrades etc. It is important to keep an eye on your router manufactures website to keep your router up to date.A note on products marketed towards Gaming:Honestly don't get sucked into products that market themselves towards gaming - they don't work (from experience). Most of the time it is just a generic router the company sells with "Gaming" added and a black theme on the web interface - a pure marketing strategy. You're often spending way more money on these products where a cheaper product (like the Ubiquiti USG or the Grandstream GWN7000 combined with a dedicated access point) will actually do a better job. Sure, they look cool in most cases but they're a waste of money. This goes for all networking products. They may work with slower connections but if you're on Fibre then save your money.----If you've got any more suggestions then post them below. I'll keep this post updated as I honestly configure so many of these damn things so have experience in quite a wide variety. If you're just wanting better WiFi look at grabbing something like an Ubiquiti UniFi AP which are excellent access points offering solid performance, and is simple to set up for your standard home user. Also, look below at other suggestions. There isn't any need to start up (yet another) topic asking "what is best" anymore.Last updated: 07/10/2018
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Frequent VDSL Disconnections (DV130 and HG630b)
I've had a Spark VDSL connection for a couple of years now and over that time I've had a few disconnections but it wasn't ruining my experience. But over the last 6 months or so the frequency of disconnections has increased. Hoping someone might be able to help.Initially there were some issues detected with the line between the telecom cabinet and my house. Chorus looked into these and they advised these were resolved. I also had the wiring from the external termination point to the modem jack replaced with Cat6. So from a wiring/line perspective I thought I was good, and for a few days DSL uptime was great. But the frequent disconnections returned. The last Spark connection test showed ~35 disconnections for that 24 hour period. The CSR also said the problem seemed to be with my modem (as opposed to the line which was previously the case) but couldn't provide more detail.I have a Dratytek Vigor DV130 modem. I've checked the VDSL config settings and these seem to be fine. I'm also running the latest firmware. I've since obtained a Spark Huawei HG630b and another DV130 (both second hand). I've tested all three modems with my VDSL connection but I'm still getting disconnections with all three. I've also replaced the RJ11/LAN cables and disconnected the modem from my router but still no luck.I've looked at the DV130 syslog and whenever my internet connection goes down, there's a corresponding entry saying 'PPP Closed : Remote Terminating (PPPoE)'. Does anyone know what this means? I've done some initial googling but haven't found much.Fibre is not yet in my area so any help or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks
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Graduating from a USG 3P
Heya,So I'm ready to graduate from a USG 3P to something with a little more power. I'm looking at the USG-Pro-4 but I'm wondering if there isn't a better EdgeRouter that will be cheaper. I would much prefer to stay with Ubiquiti products, but if anyone has any other router suggestions, shoot
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Edgerouter as ONT
The new Edgerouters all include SFP ports.As a matter of interest, could you skip the ISP provided ONT box and run the fibre straight into your router? Would there be any performance gain?
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Static IP address for PC using a Vodafone Technicolor Router
I have configured port forwarding on the Vodafone Technicolor router to use Remote Desktop but on occasions the IP address of the computer changes, I have tried entering LAN, Subnet, Gateway and DNS into the computers TCP/IPv4 adapter but keep getting a yellow explanation mark on the network icon. IP: 192.168.0.50Subnet: 255.255.255.0Gateway: 192.168.0.1Preferred DNS: 203.97.78.43Alternative DNS: 203.97.78.44 Thanks for any help to rectify this
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Windows 10 File Sharing - Limiting shares to certain devices
Hi allI'm using the standard Windows 10 file sharing from my main PC. This main PC has a cabled connection to the router. The router is the Vodafone HG659.Other devices on the network are as follows; 1 Laptop, 2 Phones, 2 Games consoles, a network receiver and a Smart TV.None of the devices are using a static IP address.Ideally, I'd like to be able to choose which folders\shares are shared with specific devices on the network, e.g. the network receiver only gets the music share. Is this something that can be done using the standard windows 10 file sharing?Or is this where a NAS device comes into the equation, is that something they can do?
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Home and Office network
Hi AllHappy NY!I am using some of my time off to set-up a wee network.A working system is in place and I would like to add a linksys wrt54g(DD_WRT) with a vpn for 2 outlets, the Samsung TV and the office workstation.I have added a sketch though not sure how to go about setting up the wrt54g(dd-wrt) and if I can place(wps) it in the red position?Thanks
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Netgear Announces Orbi Mesh WI-FI System Using Wi-Fi 6 - What Devices Support Wi-Fi 6?
Oo - Announced at CES 2019 - The new Netgear Orbi's to support the gigabit home. Will be interesting to see what pricing point these come out at. I would think that they are going to be pricey!Also what devices support Wi-Fi 6?The award-winning Orbi Whole Home Wi-Fi System, which utilizes patented Fastlane3 technology, will soon be available using 6th generation Wi-Fi, 802.11ax, or Wi-Fi 6. This powerful combination will set new performance benchmarks for Mesh Wi-Fi Systems and deliver sustained gigabit internet speeds via Wi-Fi across homes and estates.Performance of the industry leading Orbi Mesh Wi-Fi Systems is improved by adding 1024 QAM with a 4x4 Wi-Fi 6 backhaul, increasing the speeds, coverage and capacity of this dedicated wireless link between the Orbi router and satellites.With an advanced Wi-Fi 6 networking SoC from Qualcomm Technologies, Inc., Orbi with Wi-Fi 6 will support even higher performance simultaneous Wi-Fi streams, making it possible to deliver gigabit internet to far more devices and enable these gigabit internet homes to take advantage of new Wi-Fi 6 performance, which will be designed into the next generation of mobile and smart home devices.This next generation Orbi Wi-Fi system is ideal for households with a multitude of connected devices running high-bandwidth internet for HD/4K video streaming, always-on smart home devices and video monitoring security systems, which stream HD/4K to mobile devices. With an Orbi Mesh Wi-Fi system using Wi-Fi 6, your network will now be ready to effortlessly support these ultra-high-speed bandwidth-hungry applications, as well as others such as interactive VR games, 4K live sports broadcasts while also continuing to support all legacy Wi-Fi devices.https://www.netgear.com/about/press-releases/2019/NETGEAR-ANNOUNCES-ORBI-MESH-WI-FI-SYSTEM.aspx
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Modem for in front of ASUS RT-AC68U Gigabit WiFi Router
Happy New Year all, So I've had a bit of an "online purchase cockup", I have an ASUS RT-AC68U router inbound on a courier but I've just realised it is only a router and I still need a modem box in front of it. Can anyone recommend the best modem for this purpose (for VDSL)?How this all started is I wanted to improve the wifi around the house/out to garage etc. Currently have fritzbox 7390 so rang ISP (2degrees) and they can supply fritz 7490 (with 802.11AC) for 15 bucks and resign for 12 months. Cool. However my OCD research kicked in and I found the ASUS RT-AC68U Gigabit WiFi Router which promised all things good for my purpose (apart from the lack of modem).A few more questions to help sort out my new year mess:Can I bridge the fritz 7390? or would this bottleneck the Asus somehow?Should I get the fritz 7490 and bridge (if possible) that one in front of the Asus? Is there another better/more suitable VDSL modem to put in front of Asus?Should I just get the 7490 and return Asus un opened? Many thanks
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mikrotik RB750GR3 transparnet ppoe Bridge
Hi everyoneI am trying to configure the MikroTik RB750gr3 to be a ppoe bridge to a firewall, so that the firewall will have the public IP at the WAN interface with full control of traffic, port forwarding and HAproxy rules.The RB750 will be on a gig fiber connection with Connection: UFF-ONT -----> (eth1) RB750 (eth2) -----> (WAN) firewall (LAN) ----> devices.I have managed to get ppoe working but i cant seem to get the ip address to pass through the mikrotik to the wan interface on the firewall, I have had a poke around in threads here and on google but most people are just using them for the Vlan tagging for older hardware.To get it to where I am I have been using winbox to configure the rules/settings and get it to the point that i am at but i just cant quite figure it out.I am new to MikroTik product and RouterOS so not 100% sure the correct setup or if this is even possible, Im sure that it would be possible some how.So if there are ant RouterOS guru's or MikroTik gurus that could shed some light on this it would be greatly appreciated.Thanks
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UFB Ready Modem - Which Modem Brands can be Used!
Hi All,I need help on setting up my network at home.Recently i got connected with Fibre and the ISP is giving a low cost modem that i want to replace it with something like Cisco that has no wireless and it does only WAN to LAN.This Cisco Modem model must support IPoE protocol and VLAN ID: 10.Or if cisco has no solution then where can i find any model that has no wifi and it is only a modem with above mentioned protocol?NOTE: it is very confusing for many people to mix Modems with routers hence they do come in one package most of the time but they also come as wifi routers that won't have the capability of dialing with IPoE protocol (or i may be wrong).I have a Cisco867VAE i wish i could use this device to connect, but this is capable for ADSL/VDSL and not sure if it can support IPoE via virtual port. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.Brands i'm looking on are as per below:1. Cisco2. Ubiquity3. Netgear4. SonicWall5. Fortinet==============================================
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Where to get a copy of the detailed operation manual for Vodafone Ultra Hub (H500-T) modem?
I'm using Vodafone Ultra Hub (H500-T) as modem for Fibre broadband and Landline services, but Vodafone only provides basic information on how to use this modem. There should be a thick detailed operation manual for this device to better utilize the features/functionalities of this modem. Does anyone know how to get a copy of this information for this modem? By the way, this modem is made in Vietnam.
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Outsource the routing function of NF18ACV to an Edgerouter Lite - how?
I got a Netcomm NF18ACV from Slingshot with landline function enabled and an Edgerouter Lite.If I was to use the routing function of my Edgerouter while keeping the NF18ACV for switching and VOIP, can someone tell me how to set up the NF18ACV modem? * the Edgerouter is working fine by itself even with the NF18ACV behind it as a switch, but the telephone port isn't working in this setup.Many thanks
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Telnet access to HG659b for setup
Hi,I have deployed this HG659B as our wireless access point off a Cisco layer 3 switch (the aironet device we used died last week).Our main firewall is a cisco security appliance to sparks fibre connection. (vlan 10).The gimped HTTP setup up of the HG659B is bad, it disables a lan netmask of anything other than a class c (255.255.255.0).What is the admins password for a telnet connection to the HG659b so I can change the lan netmask ?Many thanks(yes we will replace the HG659b wireless in time to something more suitable)
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Dynalink Recessed Network Enclosure Patch port options?
I'm looking into getting the DYNAMIX 20" Network Enclosure, Recessed Wall Mount for my home but have a few questions on what patch ports are available for this. The network enclosure is found on the following link: http://www.dynamix.co.nz/HWS-2004V2Searching around the internet, it seems like the default patch port for this is the following: http://www.dynamix.co.nz/HPP-1008-1SLWhile the above seems to be the default solution for that network box, I don't really like the untidy design with the cables all being exposed on either top and bottom of the module exposing the wires like that and would like something similar to what cabinets have so the cables are neatly tucked away at the back. I'm not very proficient with how network designs should be done and I have a feeling it might be difficult using the network enclosure given that it's depth is 99mm compared to network cabinets being around double this at 200+mm but would like the clean look of the cabinets while using the space saving of the enclosures. The patch ports that I have seen are as below:1) http://dynamix.co.nz/PP-MINI12-C6B2) http://dynamix.co.nz/PP-MINI8-UK3) http://www.dynamix.co.nz/PP10-C6-12 Looking at 1) and 2), I would assume i could maybe align the holes together to mount the patch port but unsure how it can be done.And 3), maybe have a longer screw that goes from the patch port to align with the holes on the network enclosure? As the cabinet's made out of metal, i'm guessing putting a wireless modem inside here won't be idea either or is it viable to have the wireless modem in here as well? I was thinking of maybe having the ASUS AC3100U in the cabinet with that connected to the Fibre ONT as this is the best modem / router I have, but if WiFi signals will get impacted by it, i'm wondering if i should just put the Spark HG659B modem in the enclosure and have the ASUS modem as just a wireless bridge on one of the rooms instead.Would I be better off just taking the metal door off and use the network enclosure so the network signals aren't impacted? Will that defeat the purpose of having the network enclosure in the first place by letting dust go into it unnecessarily?Would it be a good idea to place the Fibre ONT inside the network enclosure and will it fit? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Recommendation/advice on professionals to do ethernet cabling in existing house / preparing for UFB
I'd like to have some cat6 cables laid in our existing two-storey house (in east Auckland). Since I do not have the skills, knowledge or time to do this myself, I'm happy to pay someone to do it properly, and I'm hoping the knowledgeable folks here on GZ can recommend me professionals who do a good job. We are doing this with moving to UFB in mind, so advice on this is also welcome. Below are further details about my current situation.We are currently on ADSL with master filter installed in the roof space of our two-storey, five-bedroom house. Our landline cordless phone is in the living room area downstairs. The ADSL jack point is located in a bedroom downstairs, which is where the modem, router and a desktop are also located. All other bedrooms have normal, working (but currently unused) phone jack points. There is a desktop in one upstairs bedroom (at the other end of the house to the router downstairs) which I'd like to connect to the network using ethernet. I tried wifi with patchy results; I'm currently using powerline adapters which work OK-ish but the connection would drop out from time to time - often OK for 1-2 weeks then one day it would drop out 3-4 times - very frustrating. In any case, since the desktop does not move, the ethernet option is by far the best, so I will not consider options such as better wifi etc.But also we will move to UFB soon (note: we will be ditching the landline at that point), so I wonder whether it'd be better to have the home network cabling sorted before getting the ONT installed (or deciding whether the ONT should be located)?So the minimum that I want to achieve here is a cat6 cable run (actually, I heard advice for *two* cable runs if any work is to be done) from the router downstairs up to this upstairs bedroom at the other end of the house. Since we are *not* renovating, how big a job is this likely to be? Would the roof space and phone jack points be helpful in any way? While it'd be nice to run cat6 to other parts of the house where the phone jack points are (and the TV area, which is next door to the room with the router), they are not really needed currently - the only devices that must be connected using ethernet are the two desktops, and we hardly ever use our TV these days. So if this job is complex/costly, it'd probably make more sense to only run cables to the one bedroom upstairs.If this can be done, and if the ONT can be installed in the same downstairs room where our router is currently located, then it'd be easier to switch over to UFB when the time comes. The important things to us are the availability and stability of the connection at all times.Any advice/comments appreciated, and I'd be grateful if anyone can recommend a good professional who can do this cabling work in east Auckland. Thanks!
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Amplifi Gamers Edition - NZ Availability
Hi All,Does anyone know anything about the Amplifi Gamers Edition on if/when it is going to be available in New Zealand?Review wise the main router is the same (apart from the firmware) but appears the mesh points have been redesigned a littlehttps://www.amplifi.com/gamers-edition/
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